August 10, 2005
After spending a couple down days in Fairbanks, we headed north. We departed the morning of the 6th for Prudhoe Bay, on Alaska's Arctic Coast. We drove 414 miles of mostly gravel road on the Dalton Highway. Services on this road are extremely limited. There is a gas station at mile 175 in the town of Coldfoot. Most of the drive, you have to go 30-35 miles an hour or it rattles your teeth, so this was a long drive. We did get to see a grizzly bear right along the road and the oil pipeline paralleled the road most of the time.
The first day, we were feeling great about the drive. There was heavy smoke from wildfires, so we didn't get to see much of the scenery, which is supposed to be beautiful. We wanted to get out of the smoke, so we kept driving to find a place to camp that wasn't smokey. However,we drove from dense smoke into dense fog, right before we had to go over the highest,steepest, windiest pass in Alaska. I was very uneasy about it as we could only see 5 feet in front of us and the roads were muddy from a light drizzle. We made it through the pass and decided to stop to camp in the arctic tundra. (We missed the sign that said we had crossed the Arctic Circle.) Bob's comment on Atigun Pass "it was kinda nerve wracking - muddy, slippery, and the visibility sucked, but we made it."
The wind was howling through the tundra canyon and it was damp, so it felt bitterly cold. We really felt that we were in the middle of nowhere, aside from the trucks that passed or stopped occasionally.
The next day, it rained the entire way which caused the car and camper to cake with mud. As we passed into the Arctic coastal plains, we saw some snow along the bluffs. This area is a bird sancuary in the summer, so we saw tons of birds, as well as herds of caribou.
We got to the industrial town of Deadhorse (aka Prudhoe Bay), and I had a little bit of a meltdown from the smokey, rainy, and foggy drive, the mud everywhere, and the dinginess of the town. Nobody actually lives in Prudhoe Bay, it is basically a large camp to support the oil workers who fly up and and work two weeks on/two weeks off.
We had scheduled a tour for the following morning, but we found out there was one going out in the evening, so we decided to join that one so we could leave earlier the next morning. The tour showed us a propoganda movie made by the oil companies about how their to concerns are the environment and their workers. We then boarded a bus, where our guide drove into the Prudhoe Bay oil field and camps. We then drove to the Arctic Ocean. The water temp was 39 degrees, so we only put our feet in. There were some men who were there to join the Polar Bear club. They stripped down to nothing, ran in, and right back out again.
There were no polar bears drinking Coca Cola and sliding across the ice, or penquins, or even ice for that matter, just cold ocean water. We packed up the morning of the the 8th and headed out. Bob is excited his truck hit 130,000 miles. We started our trip at 122,000 miles. The return trip was much better. We had beautiful weather and the smoke had cleared. We got to see everything that we didn't see on the way up. We stopped to do some gold panning on the way back and took pictures at the Arctic Circle.
From Fairbanks, we covered almost 1000 miles round trip, on mostly gravel road, in 4 days. We can say we did the drive and have been to the Arctic Ocean, but we both agree that we would never do it again. We finally got back to the base and were able to take our first shower since we left for Prudhoe on the 6th.
We are both exhausted, but have a lot to get done today. Tomorrow am, we head to Denali National Park, where we will spend about a week. Don't know what kinda services we will have. We will update pictures when we get a chance today.